Lisbon Marathon Review – 42km of the Majestic Estoril Coast

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By Stuart
Goulden

Avid runner. 10x marathons. Daily 10kms. Award-winning journalist when not moving (about me)

The 2021 Lisbon Marathon coincided with a month’s stay I’d booked in the city. If you’re considering it too, you’re in for a treat.

I’d read about majestic Cascais and the Estoril coast that runs north of Lisbon. Blessed with unforgettable views and colourful architecture, it has been a one of the most cosmopolitan spots in Portugal ever since King Luís I chose the bay for his summer residence in the 19th century.

The Lisbon marathon route tells the story of Portugal’s history – maritime exploration and military, royal residences, industrial endeavour, the rise of tourism and ecological conversation. It has it all.

I wanted to relive my experience for anyone else considering entering the Lisbon marathon or half marathon. I know it’s highly unusual for a runner to take photos during a marathon but I couldn’t resist doing so  – it really is that stunning.

My Lisbon marathon review covers:

  • What is the Lisbon marathon route?
  • Is Lisbon Marathon flat?
  • Where does the Lisbon Marathon start?
  • Where does the Lisbon marathon finish?
  • How to get to the Lisbon Marathon start line
  • What is the Lisbon half marathon route?

Then my experience and key milestones on the Lisbon marathon route:

  • 6:30am – catching the train to the Cascais start line
  • 8am – Lisbon marathon start time, headed towards Cabo Raso
  • 7km point – turnaround at the Cabo Raso Lighthouse
  • 16km – bask in the wonder of Estoril’s royal beaches
  • 20km – catch the early risers on Parede’s surfing beaches
  • 20km – catch the thrill seekers on Parede’s surfing beaches
  • 25km – the winding Passeio Marïtimo de Oeiras promenade
  • 30km – Praia da Caxias, the nearest beach to Lisbon
  • 36km run by the iconic Belém Tower & Vasco da Gama Bridge
  • 42km through to Rua Augusta Arch at Lisbon Marathon finish line

What is the Lisbon Marathon route?

Starting from Cascais and finishing at Praça do Comércio (Lisbon’s main square), the EDP Lisbon Marathon route is runs 100% along the Estoril coastline. It follows a repeating pattern of picturesque seaside towns, beaches and military landmarks.

Is Lisbon Marathon flat?

The EDP Lisbon Marathon route is flat and fast, with a total incline of less than 1,000ft.

The route weaves with Estoril’s coastal promenades and features long stretches along Estrada Marginal (N6), the main eastward road into Lisbon.

Where does the Lisbon Marathon start?

The Lisbon Marathon starts in the tranquil small town of Cascais, 40 minutes from Lisbon. Check out the upcoming Lisbon Marathon route on the official website.

Where does the Lisbon marathon finish?

The Lisbon Marathon ends at Praça do Comércio, Lisbon’s main square.

You approach it via the Cais do Sodre district and the Ribeira das Naus promenade that carries you through the Rua Augusta Arch onto the square.

Praça do Comércio without the crowds - Lisbon Marathon finish line
Praça do Comércio without the crowds – Lisbon Marathon finish line

How to get to the Lisbon Marathon start line

The best way to get to the Lisbon Marathon start line in Cascais is to take the 19001 line train from the central train station in Lisbon (Cais Do Sodre). The journey takes approximately 40 minutes and costs €2- €3.

It follows the near identical coastal route of the marathon, although it’ll still likely be dark so you won’t be able to pick out landmarks or retrace the route on foot later.

You’ll have no problem working out which platform to get or navigating to the start line. Simply follow the crowds of fellow runners.

How does it differ to the Lisbon half marathon route?

Lisbon half marathon starts underneath the Cristo Rei Christ the King statue. It crosses the Vasco da Gama Bridge, the longest bridge in Europe, before heading westward to Mercado da Ribeira (the Time Out Market) and Lisbon’s Cais do Sodre district.

The Lisbon half marathon route then turns back on itself, along the main Estrada Marginal (N6) road, passing Belém Cultural Centre and Belém Tower. It finishes at Jerónimos Monastery.


My Lisbon marathon review – 42km of beautiful Estoril coastline and memories

There’s no better way to experience Lisbon and the surrounding area than running its marathon. With countless beaches and the blend of new and old Lisbon, you’ll develop a stronger connection and sightseeing credentials in a few hours than you could otherwise in weeks of slow jogging or training runs.

6:30am – the train to the Lisbon marathon start line in Cascais

Your journey begins on Cascais railway line departing from Cais Do Sodré station at 6:30am, ahead of the 8am start. My training routine would often start at the same time, bringing many benefits of running in the morning.

Rather comically, passengers are a mix of runners and revelers returning from their night out. The train was packed but I was lucky to get a seat. You could tell even now that Lisbon marathon is an international affair, with many different languages being spoken in the carriages.

You arrive in Cascais in under 40 minutes. Follow the iconic wavy mosaic tiled streets (or ‘calçada portuguesa’) and the other runners flocking to the start line. It was still dark at this point but sun starts to rise as you’re waiting for the race to start.

Lisbon Marathon starts next to Jardim da Rua Julio Pereira de Mello, a small park next to the maritime museum. Keener runners were doing laps to warm up. I was not one of them.

8am – Lisbon marathon start time, headed towards Cabo Raso

The first 7km involves heading away from Cascais and Lisbon on the road towards Cabo Raso.

ing Carlos I Avenue, Cascais, Lisbon Marathon - Stefan Didam, CC BY-SA 3.0
King Carlos I Avenue, Cascais – Stefan Didam, CC BY-SA 3.0

It’s a ruggered coastal road that peers down at the Atlantic Ocean and the protected sand-dunes, with the Sintra mountain range in the background. It’s a pretty unforgiving environment with little vegetation but the crashing waves makes for a dramatic start to Lisbon marathon.

Going off body language of my fellow runners, it was not the start others were expecting either.

7km point – turnaround at the Cabo Raso Lighthouse

You’ll pass the Cabo Raso Lighthouse, an active lighthouse that is located in the Fort of São Brás of Sanxete, before having to turn back on yourself after about 7km. You can just about make it out in the background of my photo below.

Lisbon marathon towards Cabo Raso Lighthouse

This is what it should look like on a clear day…

Cabo Raso Lighthouse near Cascais, on a good day - Mайкл Гиммельфарб CC BY-SA 4.0
Mайкл Гиммельфарб CC BY-SA 4.0

This point also marks the first water station which are scattered more frequently throughout the rest of the Lisbon marathon route, often with Powerade and bananas cut in half.

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You’ll pass back through Cascais, on the other side of the road that you left it. The views pick up after Cascais along the Estoril coast aka the Portuguese Riviera. There’s a slight but extended incline but nothing too troubling.

Estoril coast lisbon marathon route

16km – bask in the wonder of Estoril’s royal beaches

Everything shimmered from this point forwards. Awe and joy started to emerge.

Johann Dréo from Chartres, France - Hotel Museu do Farol de Santa Marta IMG_7103 - CC BY-SA 2.0
CC BY-SA 2.0, Johann Dréo

The luxury tourist destination of Estoril deserves a special mention. Beautiful beaches, grand residences and coastal line defence fortifications greet you and your aching legs. The standout landmark is the Forte da Cruz, a large faux castle overlooking the beach of Tamariz.

The weather was overcast and muggy for the entire run, but it was at Estoril that it turned into a light drizzle. I was extremely grateful to be cooled down by running in the rain.

This section of Estoril’s coast is so jaw-droppingly gorgeous you’ll float through it as if under a spell.

20km – catch the thrill seekers on Parede’s surfing beaches

Lisbon Marathon route - Parede’s surfing beaches

The word Parede is Portuguese for ‘Wall’ and it’s the raised esplanade that you’ll run on along the full length of the beach.

You’ll spot the many, many surfers (look closely in the picture of Parede beach above!) as you approach it. An hour to two after sunrise is prime time for riding the swell.

25km – the winding Passeio Marïtimo de Oeiras promenade

Passeio Marítimo de Oeiras - anabananasplit - CC BY-NC-SA 2.0
Passeio Marítimo de Oeiras – anabananasplit – CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

Another peaceful promenade, the Passeio Marïtimo de Oeiras. A winding, picturesque route that hugs the Atlantic. Its distinctive red path weaves around the Santo Amaro do Areeiro fort and is one of the most stunning sections of the entire marathon route. I remember it fondly for two other reasons…

First and foremost, I was over halfway!

Secondly, Oeiras seafront was decorated with small groups of official race volunteers clapping every hundred yards or so, each carrying a flag from a different nationality of the entrants. A lovely touch that definitely kept the energy levels up.

You’ll head through a concrete tunnel and rejoin Avenida Marginal, the main dual carriageway that carries the majority of road traffic from Lisbon to Cascais. This is a long, unexciting interlude before you get to the outskirts of Lisbon’s centre, but a good opportunity to get your head down and break the back of the difficult second half of the marathon.

Making progress and chipping away at the distance but sad to leave it behind

30km – Praia da Caxias, the nearest beach to Lisbon

The next major milestone is Praia da Caxias, the closest beach to central Lisbon.

Keep an eye out for Forte de Sao Bruno, a well preserved 17th-century military fort. Star shaped and imposing, Forte de Sao Bruno is built on the rocky shore and looks like the lair of an evil Bond villain. Another one to tick off the impressive military architecture list on Lisbon’s coastline. Like the tide, the sights keep coming. They’re relentless.

I feel it’s at this point in the marathon that you run under a misty shower. I can’t recall the exact location but was nevertheless very grateful for refreshing interlude.

36km run by the iconic Belém Tower & Vasco da Gama Bridge

The crowds start to pick up as you hit peak touristy spots in Belém and follow the train tracks into the centre of Lisbon. I took this photo of this part of the coastline into Lisbon on my flight on the way over.

You’ll come across the Champalimaud Centre for the Unknown, an impressive biomedical complex carved out of curved stone and with an open plan amphitheater. The next architectural marvel is 400 years its senior, the Belém Tower. This fortification serves as a monument to Portugal’s Age of Discovery on both land and sea, as a point of embarkation and disembarkation for Portuguese explorers.

On your left is the Fundação De Arte Moderna e Contemporânea (Berardo Collection Museum), Portugal’s foremost Modern and Contemporary Art Museum. Housed in the Belém Cultural Centre, it stands out for its striking modern architecture next to the historical Jeronimos Monastery. There’s a number of parks either side, with marinas to your right and Lisbon’s famous Vasco da Gama Bridge in the distance. The longest bridge in Europe, it’s guarded by the Cristo Rei Christ the King statue on the opposite bank.

Running Vasco da Gama Bridge, Lisbon Marathon review

I’d run this route a number of times during my training having landed in Lisbon a couple of weeks earlier. The final 5km was a visual feast, unlike the no thrills start.

That said, the long home straight Praça do Comércio (Lisbon’s main square and the finish line) was a bit of a slog. My legs were feeling extremely heavy at this stage but I joined up with another runner from England after spotting his Yorkshire Marathon t-shirt to pick up my intended pace again.

42km through to Rua Augusta Arch at Lisbon Marathon finish line

Keep following the Tejo Estuary and you’re now in the Cais do Sodre district. Once the docklands and red light area of the city it’s now home to Mercado da Ribeira (the Time Out Market), the train station that took you to Cascais and the Ribeira das Naus promenade that carries you to the main square.

Praça do Comércio without the crowds - Lisbon Marathon finish line
Praça do Comércio without the crowds – Lisbon Marathon finish line

To make up the full marathon distance you have to pass through the square and turn back on yourself, perhaps a 0.5km U-turn lined with enthusiastic crowds are happy cheer you on as you exit through Rua Augusta Arch and race towards the finish line. A trail of transcendent and breathless beauty behind us.

Let the pasta party commence! A much-deserved carb fest.

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